David Longshaw on Setting Up his Own Fashion Label

In this week's interview we talked to fashion entrepreneur David Longshaw, Founder and Designer of one of London’s highly regarded emerging designer brands.

David graduated from Central St Martin’s with a BA (Hons) in Fashion Design (womenswear) in 2005 and achieved an MA from the RCA in 2007, and has been nominated for numerous international design awards. 

In February 2010, after gaining experience as a designer at Alberta Ferretti and Max Mara in Italy, David returned to the UK to launch his own label. He won the BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad 2010 and was selected for the ‘ones to watch’ catwalk show by Fashion Scout and to show at the LFW Exhibition. Today, David Longshaw’s collections are sold worldwide in the UK, USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Dubai and more.

David shared with us some of his valuable experience running his own fashion label.

When did you decide you wanted to launch your own label?

I knew I wanted to start my own label before I went to Central St. Martins. This was the reason I wanted to go there and then decided to complete my MA at the RCA.

How did you decide when was the right time to set up the label ?

It was important for me to gain some experience before starting my own label and working for Max Mara gave me the chance to gain high end commercial experience. Once I learnt as much as I could, I felt ready to come back to England and start my own label.

Having gained valuable industry  experience but felt I had  my own distinctive style (in design) to offer. Also, I wanted to start my label before I got too comfortable with the job I was doing. 

What has been your biggest achievement so far?

That people enjoy wearing my clothes and take pleasure in my work. The likes of Isabella Blow (when I was at St Martins), Helena Christensen wearing my clothes and Mary Quant complimenting me on my designs.

What has been the most difficult obstacle in your career until now, and how did you overcome it?

Dealing with Maude’s ego (Maude is the fictional fabric mouse I created whilst at St Martins and have illustrated for various magazines including Vogue Italia and vogue.com)

What support structures have helped the business grow?

When my first capsule collection was selected for Fashion Scout's ‘one’s to watch’ catwalk show and for the LFW exhibition I was lucky to receive mentoring from them. At that point, different PR agencies also approached me to represent the brand. Another important element was hiring an accountant. Many young designers forget about the money side and think they can just spend all their time designing collections. You have to make sure that you are on top of the finances.

I also received support from the UKFT to exhibit in Paris for Fashion Week and our production is outsourced to a variety of different factories and individual machinists.  

What would you describe as the most important decision you have made in order to get to where you are today?

Deciding on the direction and style I wanted to develop for my label and to stay true to that idea was important in the development of my USP. Part of my brand positioning strategy was to showcase my creativity through multiple channels.

I created a weekly comic strip for Vogue Italia online and an animation for LOVE magazine, as well as collaborations such as a multi-media art installation for the last LFW. All of which adds to the label in general.

After the  ‘One’s to watch’ catwalk, I had to decide which route to take. I didn't want to invest all the business's money in to catwalk presentations. Catwalk shows can cost 20- 50K and grow to 100-200K, and this twice a year. It's just not a sustainable business model for young designers.

Catwalks work as part of the advertising and marketing strategies of big labels like Chanel. I didn't want to get too wrapped up in the (catwalk show) glory. As a young designer you need to sell the collection, and it needs to make sense as a business. That’s why I decided to exhibit in Paris and London where I can meet people who are relevant to my business such as buyers and press. At exhibitions you meet people face to face and can build relationships.

What advice would you give to entrepreneurs who plan to start their own fashion label?

Do your research! Absorb information about pricing, stores, range plans, etc. – talk to different people at different stages of their business journey. Networking and introductions are very important. As an example, through gaining funding  to exhibit in Paris I was invited to a party at the British Ambassador’s residence and introduced to the owner of a store, which lead to a collaboration.

With everything you are doing you must be extremely busy. How do you fit everything in?

I like to have several projects at one time I tend to work more efficiently when I'm very busy – the projects can all help inspire each other and when I'm resolving problems for one aspect of a collection it may give me an idea for another project…also I don’t get much sleep.........

What are the business goals that motivate you? 
To continue being as creative as possible and to create clothing, designs, animations that people love.

David Longshaw A/W 13/14

David Longshaw A/W 13/14

Illustrations by David Longshaw

Interview by Katja Widder 

Watch out for London’s emerging designers!

                                                                                                       Sister by Sibling AW 13

It’s the exciting time of the year again – 1 month to go until London’s most popular designers will show their SS/14 collections at London Fashion Week starting on Friday, 13^th September.

How about looking at the capital’s emerging designers?

Looking back on last season’s AW/13 shows in February, Sister by Sibling, Simone Rocha, Marques Almeida, J.JS Lee and Lucas Nascimento are the 5 winners of the BFC/NEWGEN catwalk sponsorship. They will all be showing their SS/14 collections at LFW starting with Sister by Sibling on Day 1 who are undoubtedly the ones to watch - we can't wait to see how their designs have evolved last season.

Some wise words from the Sister by Sibling team Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery ‘It is never as easy as it looks and most importantly that invaluable lesson in how not to do something. Also if all else fails: have a cup of tea, a nice biscuit and laugh!’ 

That’s an attitude we love!

By Katja Widder

Source: British Fashion Council

Exhibition Review: Valentino ’Master of Couture’ at Somerset House

Last week we finally made it to the Valentino exhibition at Somerset House braving the searing cold wind blowing in from the Thames as we crossed the courtyard.

This glamorous retrospective was created by Somerset House to celebrate Valentino Garavani’s 50 years of being in the haute couture business, and as you walk in and see the timeline’s mounted on the walls, you really get a sense of Valentino’s tremendous output having clothed so many ‘glitterati’ during the last 5 decades.

Valentino with models 2007 c Lorenzo Agius

The first section features large glass cabinets mounted on rows of Louis XV style chairs, such as those used during couture presentations – a simple but imaginative display tool. The cabinets house a selection of invitations to the Valentino couture shows, press cuttings, numerous thank you letters from his celebrity and Royal clientele, and also some original sketches.

The upstairs gallery housed the 130 pieces on show and formed a dramatic entrance. The Valentino clad mannequins seem to be arranged in day wear or evening wear clusters either side of a long 60m carpeted corridor which runs the length of the gallery thus giving them the appearance, that they are the audience and you, the visitor, are the model walking down the catwalk of a fashion show.

The clothes were interspersed with chairs reserved for luminaries such as “Audrey Hepburn” "Gisele", "Iman", and “Julia Roberts". The mannequins had numbers on the wrists and were grouped together by colour – each colour representing a decade from the 1950s onwards.

The brochure is essential to identify the pieces (hence the numbers), and to see if the garment was worn by anyone famous, as there isn’t any interpretation information within this section of the exhibition.

Back downstairs to the lower gallery in the third room there was a show piece wedding designed and worn by Princess Marie Chantal of Greece. A spectacular pearl-encrusted ivory silk wedding gown with a four and a half metre train and 12 kinds of lace, made in 1995 by 25 of Valentino's seamstresses.

The last room was particularly interesting for me. Large glass cabinets housed samples of fabric giving a close up view of some of the different sewing techniques used in the garments – some of which are exclusive to Valentino’s atelier. This included Drappeggio: chiffon and silk draped on the bias, Nervature: double seamed organza silk with line detailing and Budellini: double charmeuse silk rolled and sewn around lopped wool strands. A useful glossary of all the techniques is at the back of the brochure. There are also videos running of ’ Le Regazze’ (the girls) at work in the studio stitching these techniques.

As you’d expect the evening wear is the strongest part of the exhibition. Valentino’s collections could not be classed as cutting edge and he’s never particularly followed fashion, however his timeless couture creations, epitomise glamour and high-end craftsmanship. This is why year after year celebrities flock to him to for their red carpet fix.

My 5 favourites – a hard task but here goes...

• #31 A/W90/91 Autumnal coloured chiffon evening dress with drappeggio detailing
• #51 S/S1993 White chiffon evening gown with budellini detailing
• #52 S/S 2003 White charmeuse evening dress
• #64 A/W 92/93 Black velvet and tulle evening dress (as worn by Julia Roberts at the 2011 Oscars)
• #69 A/W 92/93 Black velvet and satin evening dress

I really enjoyed this exhibition and would recommend  a visit to anyone with an interest in couture and craftsmanship. If I have any criticisms, it would be the lack of information on display within the garment part of the exhibition, it was a bit irritating to have to keep referring to the brochure - and I would have loved to have seen images of clients wearing the clothes alongside the mannequins.

Do let me know which were your favourite dresses!

By Alison Lewy
Follow @FashionAngel1
Running until 3 March, 10am-6pm daily.
Late night openings Thursdays until 9pm.
Admission £12.50, Concessions, £9.00

www.somersethouse.org.uk

London Collections: Men

London Collections: Men is being showcased this week, from 7th-9th of January. London emphasises British brands and emerging talent during this period showing their creative and commercial importance. With designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, Alfred Dunhill, Tom Ford, Lee Roach and Burberry, it is going to be a showcase to remember. Menswear has suddenly grown so quickly in the industry so it is a great way of showing equality in the way womenswear is portrayed.

Vivienne Westwood’s show is later on today but she has already been tweeting some of her sketches giving us all a sneak peak of what is yet to be seen. 

Vivienne Westwood's Sketches

Lou Dalton's AW13 collection at the fashion event had a grungy 1990s feel to it. It included tartan and PVC features, wool knitwear, welded toe capped boots, contrast panel jackets and slim-fitting tailoring. I love how the Scottish heritage fabrics are used in a tailored way to create a different way of looking at tailor-made clothing. I think the mixture of fabrics and styles work well together creating a focused and tight showcase. What do you think?

Here are some more photographs from the 'London Collections: Men,' so far from this week:

Design By MAN

Design By RAKE

Design By MAN

Cara Delevingne: Britain’s Model of the Year

Cara Delevingne, 20 year old British Fashion Model wins award for Model of the Year.

Face of vogue.

She is currently the face of Burberry's beauty campaign, and has also worked with  other companies such as H&M, Victoria Secret, Shiatzy Chen, Jason Wu, Oscar de la Renta, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Stella McCartney and Chanel.



Burberry beauty campaign.

Words from Mario Testino “She’s great, I work with her on all the Burberry ads. She is like the new Kate in a way, if you think of her personality and energy and attitude.”

By Sophie Gunn

JW Anderson wins the emerging talent award.

JW Anderson has done it, he has won the prestigious Emerging Talent Award at the British Fashion Awards. Presented by Pixie Geldoff, Anderson picked up his award at the ceremony in the London Savoy Hotel.

 

Earlier this year in September Anderson launched his collection for Topshop, which will also be followed by a collaboration in early 2013.

 

Topshop Design By JW Anderson

 

His design signatures are

"Things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man." I love this way of looking at fashion, there is no reason why a man can’t get all glammed up, and why women cant wear suits these days!

Anderson has a loyal celebarity following, his clothes have been seen on Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Rita Ora and Leigh Lezark.

 

Rita Ora wearing JW Andersons Cabel knit jumper.

JW Anderson is now collaborating with Dontella Versace by

creating a capsule collection for Versus. His collection will include both womens and mens Ready To Wear and accessories. The collection will be unveild around March or April next year and sold at top department stores worldwide as well as being sold online at Versus.it. Versace has stated "I saw something different in what he was doing, a real desire to push forward. I think Jonathan is a perfect fit for this inaugural capsule collection. In addition to being a talented designer, he's well versed with the new digital world and is, therefore, an ideal partner for our new direction."

JW Anderson has had a very busy year and personally I think he deserved the award, but do you agree?

By Sophie Gunn

　

　

Video of the week - Versace Men Spring/Summer 2013: Designer at Work Donatella Versace

The video I chose this week is from the Versace Menswear Spring/Summer for next year. The video features coverage of the runway highlights and some of what goes on backstage. Dontella Versace tells us about her new collection with the meaning to send a message of strength through the mind body and clothes. She also says how she wants to deliver her message to the world: to fight for your dreams and goals in life.

Versaces garments have the style of gladiators using blacks, browns, whites and golds, reminding me of the baroque style which I love at the moment!

What do you think of Versaces 2013 Spring/Summer style?

By Sophie Gunn

　

Video of the week - Haiti's first fashion week.

Video of the week - This week i chose this video of Haiti's Latest Trends and Styles 2012 at their first ever fashion week!

Organisers say it is a chance to give the Caribbean island's image just a dash of much-needed glamour! It took place on November 8 through to November 11, 2012 at the five-star Karibe Hotel in Port-au-Prince.

The event featured more than three dozen different designers.

A model presents a creation by Haitian fashion and accessories designer Giovanna Menard during Haitian Fashion Week 2012

Please watch and feel free to give your opinions.

By Sophie Gunn

Do you agree that Miranda Kerr is the new Kate Moss?

Australian supermodel 29 year old Miranda Kerr married to Orlando Bloom, started her professional modelling career back at the young age of 13. She has featured as the face of Maybelline New York and Levi’s jeans. Miranda has also been known as a Victoria Secrets ‘angel’ since 2006. In 2009, 2010 and 2011 Miranda has made it onto FHM’s ‘100 Sexiest Women’ Poll, as well as being number 1 on the Australian version in 2011. But this year, since the last Victoria Secrets show her status seems to have boosted and everyone is talking about her!

Miranda Kerr, Victoria Secrets Fashion show 2012

Spanish fashion retailer ‘Mango’ has made her become the new face of their company announcing that she will feature in print and video ad campaigns for them. Miranda posted in the labels blog, "Mango is a brand that I love. You always find the perfect garment for every occasion!"



Mirada Kerr shooting for Mango.

Miranda is joining the long line of supermodels being Kate Moss, Milla Jovovich, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Claudia Schiffer and Christy Turlington who have all also represented the brand.

It is great to see the Model doing something she enjoys so much, she has said, ‘I am delighted to be collaborating with Mango for the spring/summer 2013 season. We had a great time shooting the campaign and it was very easy working with the entire team.’

                                         Here is an interview with the model Miranda Kerr.

I think Miranda is a beautiful model and perfect for the Fashion retailers Mango, but what do you think?

By Sophie Gunn

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

BOOK OF THE MONTH - A FRONT ROW SEAT BY KIRSTIN SINCLAIR

With London Fashion Week opening on 17th February, it seems timely to launch our regular series of book reviews with a review of a gorgeous book  - A Front Row Seat, by Kirstin Sinclair

Author Kirstin Sinclair is a well-known photographer on the catwalk circuit and she gives us insight into the fashion week world through a series of beautifully shot candid photographs taken over the last 7 years that cover all the different elements that make up the catwalk shows - Backstage, Front Row, Catwalk and Street Style.

It shows a behind the scenes view into the chaotic world that makes up the  glamorous fashion shows! Unlike many images from the shows published in women's fashion magazines the book has a much more documentary style feel to it. The book has a forward by Erin O’Connor and features quotes from different people from the industry including make up artists, hair stylists, models, editors, designers and bloggers. The book would bring a touch of sophistication to anyone’s coffee table and makes the perfect gift for fashionistas. If you can't get a ticket to any of the forthcoming shows, this book might just console you!

By Alison Lewy 

Follow @FashionAngel1